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Real Estate Blog
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Thursday, October 27 2011
Several times over the past few months I have suggested that we need more listings because properly priced listings are selling. There are three reasons that I feel so strongly that this is the case. First, the number of listings on the market is below historical norms. We currently have less than 2900 active listings in our area. This compares to a high of over 3700 listings, or a reduction of 25%. Second, is that our month’s supply has remained pretty consistent since February at levels lower than the previous two years. Third, our prices have stabilized at levels about 3% above last year’s prices. Keep in mind this information applies to the housing market in this area only, not the entire country.
I have been confident that good listings are selling for some time now but received some confirmation from an unexpected source recently. I have a Realtor friend in Ft. Wayne who does a lot of real estate statistical analysis. He asked me if I would share some information about our MLS so he could see what his analysis suggested about our local market. I sent him the information he requested and a few days later he sent me an email. The first half of his comments were statistical in nature and discussed the ratios he used, but the second half was pretty clear either to the novice or a seasoned veteran. He said “All I can say is you better be getting listings because they are selling, certainly if priced right…” Keep in mind his analysis is based only on hard numbers and has nothing to do with his direct experience in this market. If you or anyone you know is considering a move, now is the right time to act.
Homes in good condition that are priced right are selling. I can’t promise that I can sell your home today but I can promise that no company or agent in this area has better tools or a better marketing system that F. C. Tucker Emge Realtors. Call me today and I can get your home on the market before conditions change again.
Kathy and I have been working on a Home Buyer’s Guide for some time now and we would be more than happy to share this with you. Just call me at 812-499-9234 or email me at Rolando@RolandoTrentini.com and I will email you the report.
We hope you will enjoy the rest of the fall season as we are. We took a small trip to Patoka Lake last weekend and saw thoroughly enjoyed nature in full color.
Wednesday, October 26 2011
Don’t use chemicals to clear clogged drains. Use a plumber’s snake and follow these tips on preventing clogged drains.
Clogged drains are the most common home plumbing problem, but you probably don’t think much about the network of pipes inside your home’s walls until a drain stops working. Clogged drains are a hassle, but easily cleared.
However, you can avoid the hassle by paying attention to what goes down your drain. A little care prolongs the life of plumbing pipes, prevents leaks, and avoids costly repairs.
Avoid chemical drain-clearing products
You can buy chemicals to clear clogged drains, but these products sometimes do more harm than good. They can actually erode cast-iron drainpipes.
And because they typically don’t remove the entire clog, the problem is likely to recur, causing you to use the chemicals repeatedly. The caustic action of chemicals may eventually wear away the insides of pipes, causing leaks.
Better to hire a plumber to snake the drain (usually $85 to $325) and completely remove the chunk of hair or grease that’s plugging the line.
Better still (and cheaper!), pick up a manually operated augur, or snake, of your own, for about $15 at the hardware store. Or, rent an electric snake for about $30 for a half day, and try clearing the clogged drain yourself.
Prevent clogged drains
Clogged drains aren’t just nuisances. Backed-up water puts added pressure on wastepipes, stressing them and shortening their lifespan. To avoid clogged drains:
- Keep food scraps out of kitchen drains. Scrape food into the trash before doing dishes—even if you have a disposal—and never put liquid grease down the drain; pour it into a sealable container to put in the garbage after it cools.
- Keep hair out of bathroom drains. Install screens over drains in showers and tubs, and pull out what hair you can every few weeks to prevent buildups.
- Keep anything but sewage and TP out of toilets.
Keep your sewer lines or septic tank clear
If you have municipal sewers, hire a plumber to snake your main sewage cleanout every few years. This will cost $135 to $600, and will remove tree roots that inevitably work their way into these pipes—leading to messy sewage backups.
If you have a septic system, get the tank pumped out every three to five years for $75 to $350; it’ll be more for larger tanks.
A former staff writer for the Wall Street Journal, Joe Bousquin writes about housing, construction, and home improvement. The galvanized steel water pipes in his 1930 home in Sacramento, Calif., have all been replaced with copper.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/electrical/how-to-prevent-drain-clogs-and-blockage/#ixzz1bowJLuFj
Tuesday, October 25 2011
Indiana State Police Participate in Prescription Drug Take Back Day
On Saturday, October 29, the Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) will be sponsoring the third nationwide "Prescription Drug Take Back" initiative. The "Take Back" initiative seeks to prevent increased prescription drug abuse and theft. Collection sites will be set up nationwide as collection points for expired, unused and unwanted prescription drugs for destruction. This service is free and anonymous, no questions asked.
The Indiana State Police will once again be participating in this initiative. All state police posts are available as prescription drug drop off sites with the exception of the Toll Road Post in Bristol. Citizens in southern Indiana wishing to participate in this program may drop off their prescription drugs for disposal at the Indiana State Police Post in Evansville located at 19411 Highway 41 North, on Saturday, October 29, between 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.
Source: http://tristatehomepage.com/fulltext?nxd_id=312607
Monday, October 24 2011
Last month, home building was at its fastest pace in 17 months, rising 15 percent from August and posting the new-home sector’s best pace since April 2010, the Commerce Department reported Wednesday.
In September, single-family home building increased 1.7 percent, while apartment building jumped 53.4 percent.
Builders began work on a seasonally adjusted 658,000 homes in September. While that marks a big improvement, the level still remains only about half of the 1.2 million pace that economists consider healthy for the new-home sector.
Builders are continuing to struggle to compete against heavily discounted foreclosures and short sales that are plaguing many markets.
Building permits, which serve as a measure of future building, dropped 5 percent in September, the Commerce Department reported.
Yet, builders seem to be getting more optimistic that the new-home market is showing signs of improvement. The National Association of Home Builders reported on Tuesday that industry sentiment rose in October to 18, the highest level in over a year. However, overall sentiment about the industry remains low--any reading below 50 indicates negative sentiment about the housing market (a level that hasn’t been reached since April 2006).
Source: “September Home Building Rose 15%, But Permits for Future Homes Fell 5%” Associated Press (Oct. 19, 2011)
Saturday, October 22 2011
Having trouble starting your leaf blower or chain saw? You’re not alone.
In the past few years small engine repair shops have been reporting an increase in problems with outdoor power equipment and landscape tools, such as leaf blowers, lawn mowers, and string trimmers. The culprit? Ethanol-blended gasoline.
Ethanol is a solvent that contributes to the deterioration of rubber gaskets, plastic nozzles, and aluminum — parts and materials common to small engines. Although heavy use and age contribute to wear and tear on internal components, ethanol speeds up the process.
In addition, ethanol contributes to deposits in fuel lines and carburetors, blocking fuel flow and causing engines to refuse to start.
In low concentrations, ethanol isn’t especially harmful to small engines. E10 ethanol blend, which is made up of 10% ethanol, is considered acceptable.
However, the EPA recently approved higher concentrations that are readily available at many gas station pumps: E15, a 15% blend, and E85 made for flex-fuel vehicles.
The reasoning, of course, is commendable: Using higher concentrations of domestically produced biofuels reduces gasoline consumption and yields better mileage for vehicles. Large, modern car and truck engines are designed to run ethanol-blended gas.
These higher concentrations, however, can wreak havoc on small engines. Small engine manufacturer Briggs & Stratton, for example, voids the warranty on its power equipment if you use gas with a higher concentration of ethanol than E10.
And E10 itself isn’t completely off the hook. Ethanol combines easily with water, meaning that it tends to grab and hold onto any moisture lingering in cans and fuel tanks. The result is an uneven fuel mixture that contains water — a bummer for engines.
The problem occurs when fuel cans and equipment containing old gas are left sitting around for months – chances increase that ethanol has made the fuel mixture potentially hazardous to your leaf blower and chain saw.
The potential frustration – and cost – to home owners is considerable. Briggs & Stratton estimates there are more than $50 billion worth of lawn mowers in garages all over the country.
Want to protect your investment, and avoid trips to the repair shop just when the leaves are falling? Here’s what to do:
- Use clean, fresh unleaded gasoline with a minimum of 87 octane.
- At the gas pump, check ethanol ratings carefully. Don’t use gas with a blend ratio higher than 10% (E10).
- Change fuel frequently. Gas that’s been sitting around for more than 60 days should be replaced with fresh gas.
- Gently slosh fuel containers to remix gas before adding fuel to small engines.
- Add a fuel stabilizer to your gas mixture. Ask your equipment dealer to recommend a product that’s formulated to reduce water absorption caused by ethanol gas.
- When storing equipment, such as your lawn mower over the winter, run the engine dry. Buy fresh gas next year.
Have you had a problem with your gas-powered leaf blower or trimmer? Was ethanol the culprit?
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/blog/landscaping-gardening/problems-leaf-blower-ethanol-gas/#ixzz1aVJtAGRs
Friday, October 21 2011
The Zoo’s most popular event is just around the corner! Enjoy a safe Halloween and visit the creatures of the night in our newly renovated Nocturnal exhibit, as well as AMAZONIA, all at the same time! Visitors will trick or treat throughout the zoo visiting more than a dozen candy stations, plus enjoy craft activities, a giant inflatable, a Mad Scientist, murals, face painting, creepy critters, games and of course, our Amazing Magician Don Baggett! Don’t forget to dress up in your favorite costume. Visitors of all ages will have a frightfully good time and enjoy an adventuresome Halloween, leaving the Zoo with a bag full of goodies!
Date: October 21, 22, 24, 28, 29, 30 - 2011
Time: 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM
Location: Mesker Park Zoo address:1545 Mesker Park Drive Evansville, IN 47720
Price: $8-General Admission; $6-Zoo Members; 1 and under - Free
Thursday, October 20 2011
Evansville Mayor Jonathan Weinzapfel says construction of the Ford Center created 30 percent more local jobs than originally estimated. The city says more than three-quarters of the nearly 1,600 workers on the new downtown arena are members of local trade unions.
Evansville Mayor Jonathan Weinzapfel is pleased to announce that the construction of the Ford Center created 30 percent more jobs for local laborers than originally estimated.
Collectively, the 1,597 people who completed safety orientation training logged approximately 692,862 hours on the project. According to Hunt Construction, 1,275, or 80 percent, of those who worked on the Ford Center are members of local trade unions.
An initial economic impact study, completed before construction on the facility began, estimated that only 50 percent of jobs created would be from local labor.
“When we began this project in 2008, we knew it would benefit hundreds of local families by putting men and women from our community to work. Today, I am proud to report that the economic impact of the construction of the Ford Center has exceeded our expectations. With Indiana and the nation struggling with record unemployment, we created good paying jobs for nearly 1,300 area residents,” said Mayor Weinzapfel.
“The construction of the Ford Center provided a much needed boost for all of our local craftspeople. We are proud of the work that’s been done and proud to have been part of the project. Hunt Construction created a great environment on the job and we couldn’t have asked for a better partner,” said Jack McNeely, President of the Central Labor Council. “The Ford Center is going to be a significant asset for Evansville.”
To thank all of the men and women who worked countless hours to make the Ford Center a reality, a contractor appreciation event is being held this Saturday.
It is a celebration of the workers’ achievement and an opportunity to showcase the project to family and friends.
The multi-purpose Ford Center will be the region’s center for sports and entertainment, designed to host basketball, hockey, concerts, exhibitions, and shows for audiences as large as 11,000.
More information is available at www.EvansvilleArenaProject.com and www.TheFordCenter.com.
Wednesday, October 19 2011
Besides the annual inspection and sweep for your chimney, improve the function of your wood fireplace with responsible use.
Ready for the colder months? You will be if you follow these simple guidelines to keep your wood fireplace burning brightly—and safely.
1. Only burn dry, cured wood—logs that have been split, stacked, and dried for eight to 12 months. Cover your log pile on top, but leave the sides open for air flow.
Hardwoods such as hickory, white oak, beech, sugar maple, and white ash burn longest, though dry firewood is more important than the species. Less dense woods like spruce or white pine burn well if sufficiently dry, but you’ll need to add more wood to your fire more often, according to the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA).
2. Burn firewood and only firewood! Crates, lumber, construction scraps, painted wood, or other treated wood releases chemicals into your home, compromising air quality. Log starters are fine for getting your wood fireplace going, but they burn very hot; generally only use one at a time.
3. Close the damper when not using your wood fireplace to prevent warm indoor air—and the dollars you’re spending to heat it—from rushing up the chimney.
4. Keep bifold glass doors open when burning a fire to allow heat to get into the room. On a factory-built, prefab wood fireplace with a circulating fan, keep doors closed to prevent unnecesary heat loss.
5. Have a chimney cap installed to prevent objects, rain, and snow from falling into your chimney, and to reduce downdrafts. Caps have side vents so smoke escapes. A chimney sweep usually provides and can install a stainless steel cap, which is better than a galvanized metal one because it won’t rust. Caps cost $50 to $200.
6. Replace a poorly sealing damper to prevent heat loss. A top-mounted damper that also functions as a rain cap provides a tighter closure than a traditional damper for your wood fireplace.
7. Install carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors in your house—near your wood fireplace as well as in bedroom areas.
8. Get your chimney cleaned twice a year if you burn more than three cords of wood annually. A cord is 4 feet high by 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, or the amount that would fill two full-size pickup trucks.
9. To burn a fire safely, build it slowly, adding more wood as it heats. Keep the damper of your wood fireplace completely open to increase draw in the early stages. Burn the fire hot, at least occasionally—with the damper all the way open to help prevent smoke from lingering in the fireplace and creosote from developing.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/fireplaces-chimneys/wood-fireplace-9-tips-safety-and-efficiency/#ixzz1aaAPwOVL
Tuesday, October 18 2011
Inspect windows and doors regularly to stop air leaks and water seeps that create high energy and repair bills. We’ll show you how.
Take a look at windows, doors and skylights to stop air leaks, foil water drips, and detect the gaps and rot that let the outside in and the inside out. You can perform a quick check with a home air pressure test, or do a detailed inspection. Luckily, these inspections are easy to do. Here’s how to examine the barriers that should stand between you and the elements.
Big picture inspection
A home air pressure test sucks air into the house to reveal air leaks that increase your energy bills. To inspect windows and other openings:
- Seal the house by locking all doors, windows, skylights, and shutting all vents.
- Close all dampers and vents.
- Turn on all kitchen and bath exhaust fans.
- Pass a burning incense stick along all openings—windows, doors, fireplaces, outlets—to pinpoint air rushing in from the outside.
Windows and the outside world
Air and water can seep into closed widows from gaps and rot in frames, deteriorating caulking, cracked glass, and closures that don’t fully close.
To stop air leaks, pinpoint window problems.
- Give a little shake. If they rattle, frames are not secure, so heat and air conditioning can leak out and rain can seep in. Some caulk and a few nails into surrounding framing will fix this.
- Look deep. If you can see the outside from around—not through—the window, you’ve got gaps. Stop air leaks by caulking and weather stripping around frames.
- Inspect window panes for cracks.
- Check locks. Make sure double-hung windows slide smoothly up and down. If not, run a knife around the frame and sash to loosen any dried paint. Tighten cranks on casement windows and check that top locks fully grab latches.
Door doubts
- Check doors for cracks that weaken their ability to stop air leaks and water seeps.
- Inspect weather stripping for peels and gaps.
- Make sure hinges are tight and doors fit securely in their thresholds.
Inspect skylights
Brown stains on walls under a skylight are telltale signs that water is invading and air is escaping. Cut a small hole in the stained drywall to check for wetness, which would indicate rot, or gaps in the skylight.
To investigate skylight leaks, carefully climb on the roof and look for the following:
- Open seams between flashing or shingles.
- Shingle debris that allows water to collect on roofs.
- Failed and/or cracked cement patches put down the last time the skylight leaked.
Monday, October 17 2011
Kitchen fires are eminently preventable. Here’s how to stay safe now and during the holidays when you really put your oven and stove through their paces.
I was troubled to see so many kitchen fires crowding the news today — especially since Sunday begins Fire Prevention Week (Oct. 9-15).
Cooking fires, primarily started on ranges or in ovens, cause 40% of all house fires, and 36% of all fire-related injuries, according to the National Fire Protection Association. Frying poses the greatest risk, and Thanksgiving is the peak day for kitchen fires.
So let’s stay safe. Follow these easy safety tips, courtesy of the NFPA.
How to prevent a kitchen fire
1. Be alert. If you’re tired or tipsy, don’t use the stove or oven.
2. Never leave the kitchen — even for a short time — when food is frying, grilling, or broiling. Don’t leave the house if food is simmering, baking, or roasting.
3. Use a timer to remind you that food is cooking.
4. Clear away from stovetops anything that can catch fire, like cloth and paper towels, oven mitts, and wooden spoons.
How to put out a kitchen fire
1. Get out of the kitchen. Close the door behind you when you leave to help prevent the fire from spreading to the rest of your house.
2. When you reach safety, call 911 or your local emergency number.
3. Make sure others are out of the house and you have an escape route before you try to fight the fire.
4. Smother a grease fire by sliding a pot lit over the pan. Then, turn off the stove. Don’t remove the lid until the pan is cool.
5. If your oven catches fire, turn it off and keep the door closed.
For a look at another method of putting out a grease fire, check out this video:
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/blog/emergency-preparedness/kitchen-fires-how-prevent-and-put-out/#ixzz1aPgHJxgT
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